FABTEK CLR-1 Fin Clamp Hydronic Baseboard Element Zusätzliche Finnen, 1' Abschnitt für 3/4 Kupfer

Brand:FABTEK

3.7/5

84.83

Das Lamellenklemmen-Fußleistenelement ist ein Hydronik-Heizelement mit mehreren Lamellen und Scharnieren, das an vorhandenen Warmwasser- oder Dampfleitungen befestigt wird. Es lässt sich leicht entfernen und versetzen, ohne das Rohr zu zerschneiden. Es verläuft um das Rohr herum und wird mit einer speziellen Klemme an Ort und Stelle gehalten. Die zusammengebaute Einheit lässt sich in Sekundenschnelle installieren. Ersetzen Sie fehlende Rippen und erhöhen Sie die Effizienz des Kessels.

Herkunftsland: Vereinigte Staaten. Das 1-Fuß-Teil kann an Ihre Bedürfnisse angepasst werden und beseitigt kalte Stellen. Haltbarer als Originalflossen, hergestellt aus schwererem Metall. Die 2-1/8-Finne erzeugt 591 BTU pro linearem Fuß des aktiven Elements. Die 2-1/8-Finne passt auf 3/4-Kupferrohre.
Batteries Required? ‎No
Brand FABTEK
Color Copper
Color ‎Copper
Country of Origin ‎USA
Customer Reviews 4.6 4.6 out of 5 stars 124 ratings 4.6 out of 5 stars
Item Dimensions LxWxH 12 x 3 x 3 inches
Item model number ‎CLR-1
Item Package Quantity ‎1
Item Weight ‎15.2 ounces
Manufacturer ‎Park Supply of America
Material Copper
Material ‎Copper
Measurement System ‎Inch
Part Number ‎CLR-1
Product Dimensions ‎12 x 3 x 3 inches
Style Custom
Style ‎Custom

3.7

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Scritto da: brandy allen
Fits great
Perfect for a emergency repair when I had to splice a line this past winter.
Scritto da: vxs
Amazing add on to increase heat radiance
Update: had to add this in to save others the headache. The metal tinging noises became annoying because the metal bars that clamp onto the fins get rubbed on by the fins once the hotwater expands the metal. I had some hvac/plumbing foam tape type material from homedepot thats basically like 1/8" thin heat resistant foam with adhesive side and put it between the clamp bar and the fins (one on top amd one on bottom) and the sound is absolutely gone. Ive officially succeeded in total silence from my hyronoc heat and hope this info helps others. --------original: Amazing add on to increase heat radiance in bare pipe zones without needing to sweat in a new set of fins preattached to copper piping. No draining or anything needed you just need to be able to take off the cover. Two very important things to keep in mind. -Cut and shove pipe insulation behind the fins and around the 'holder' pieces from the backing plate that hold the pipe unit in line. See picture for reference. This will stop around 90% of any noise from rubbing metal to metal from heat expansion and contraction when the hot water flows. You should do this to the original fins as well to stop noise if its bothering you. -Do not over tighten the screws, just make them snug. I originally overtightened it and it caused noise/tinging when the heat went on because of the extra tightness the expansion/contraction was making noise in the clamp unit itself. I loosened from overtight to just snug and the noise seems to have gone away, if anything I will be using some heat resistant weatherstripping under the 2 bars you screw onto the fins to get rid of any metal/metal contact at all. **** I ended up replacing the original cover with 'ezsnapon' covers and it just shows a little underneath the new covers. Not that I care at all but just thought people should be aware if you were going down that route and wanted a perfect incognito unit.**** I hope this helps you even if you dont buy or use this product in anyway. Always use something to keep the original fins from rubbing on the back or the carriers which align the pipe in place.
Scritto da: John Niles
Fits in Easily
I decided to replace my old hot water baseboard cover in a bathroom that had rusted and become unsightly. However, I did not have space to remove the old back cover due to the addition of tile to the wall during a remodeling project. My options were to attempt to cut out the back cover without damaging the hot water tubing or the existing heat dispensing fins. I also did not want to drain my heating system, unsolder the tubing, move the tubing, and install a baseboard cover, then resolder the tubing, refill the system, then bleed it. Instead, I removed all the fins (not a trivial job), removed the back cover, installed the new baseboard assembly, and installed the element fins. They fit quite well, being (I think) just slightly smaller than the original fins I removed. The install was very easy and well worth the avoidance of unsoldering, resoldering, system draining, refilling, and bleeding. I highly recommend this product although it is significantly more expensive than traditional fins. The cost and effort avoidance by using this product is very much worth it, especially for smaller areas, such as bathrooms.
Scritto da: Rob
Almost as hot as the original fin tube baseboard
I was a little skeptical when I installed these. I purchased 4 of them to install over some bare copper pipe on an exterior wall. The original fin tube baseboard at my house on a 5° morning measures 118° at the top of the exterior baseboard and as you can see in the photo, the clamp on from fabtek came in at 105°. Not too shabby to be honest. Without the fin clamp, the temp is 70° or so. Of course the numbers change depending on the outdoor temp and the temp of the water from your boiler, but if you are in need of some extra BTU’s to get that chiller room a little warmer, these will absolutely help out.
Scritto da: Marco
Very innovative
I was remodeling my bath and discovered that I had behind my baseboard cover a 1 foot long bare pipe leading into the active element. The bathroom was always a bit cool. This product is one of a kind easy to install, and is better than the factory fins on the existing baseboard. The added fins is right on the heat loss now and the bath is comfortable. They really should sell this at plumbing supply houses and big box stores they would kill it!
Scritto da: lxc1227
It is very easy to install
I installed a 1-ft section in son's room this week and waiting for a 2nd 1-ft order to arrive. It is very easy to install. Outside temperature is not at the coldest this week so I can't tell if the room is warmer than before. At $31 per foot, it is way too expensive than the normal cost of $10/ft for the baseboard heater. I did evaluate the option to replace the whole section with new pipe + fins, decided against it as soldering + draining/refilling are too much works to save $20-$30. If I need more, I would opt for soldering a new pipe by buying the cheaper pipe+fins.
Scritto da: Tim
Works for me.
I saw this item listed and declared "That's what I need!". But not what it was designed for. I put the one i bought on the discharge pipe on my air compressor. It does a good job removing heat before the air gets to the storage tank. Which will reduce the amount of moisture in the air. Which makes my soda blaster happy. Which makes me happy. I'm looking at buying another to cool the air further down the line before the storage tank.
Scritto da: River Rat
Works Great, although I modified the way it clamps together.
Great problem solving product. I needed a little extra heat where there was a bare line, and this sure beats draining, cutting and soldering! I didn't have a lot of room behind the line, just enough between it and the wall. So the way I ended up wrapping the clamp around the pipe, I would have had to use the bar clamps that come with it, on the top and bottom. I thought this might block some heat from rising (although very slightly). Ideally, I think the clamping bars should be positioned on the sides, if possible when mounting it. So I ditched those and used some light bailing wire twisted around the studs on both ends, to hold it tightly together. Works great.

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